Tuesday, June 18, 2013

A designers tips to dressing your shape!

As a "big" girl for half of my life I have found that most "ready wear" clothing does not fit well.  I have shopped Lane Bryant, JC Penny, Torrid (when it was still in town) and hated every minute of it. I am not a cookie cutter gal and here is why.

I am large boned as my heritage is from Hawaii and the UK. Note they are not very small people. The queen of Hawaii stood over 6 feet tall and weighed close to 400 lbs. She was not fat, she was beautiful, strong and regal. The king was almost 7 feet tall and weighed over 400 lbs and yet you look at pictures of them and you would not even guess they were that large. Why? Because they were of non European blood lines and a physically strong people.

So I have very long arms for a woman my height. Even when I was tiny small, my arms were still too long for most dress's and shirts in the ready wear market. I also have very broad shoulders and large biceps that bulk up when I work out, or give lots of massages. My thighs are thick, I have broad hips and a nice round booty as well. A small waist with an ample bust and boom, I have a heck of a time finding clothing that flatters me, I feel comfy in and works for me. Since I have a waist, I try to find clothes that shows I do have one, otherwise I look like a very large football player! How do you think that makes me feel? Not so hot or sexy for that matter. So my staple of choice for the majority of my dressing career has been jeans, t-shirts and sweatshirts most of the time. Boring!

So here we go once again. Women who are wearing sizes larger then a 14 need to learn what will work for their bodies. As a seamstress and designer, I look at pictures of plus size women and go, wow what was she thinking? Not to be insulting or making fun of anyone, but every person has something beautiful about their bodies and most ready wear clothing in the average price range does not meet all those needs or criteria.

So here are some examples of what I am talking about. 

Example #1 Large Bust


 Problem 1. Dress does not support breasts

 Solution:
  Purchase or have a gown/dress made that has heavier material and with boning built in. If you are over a DD bust size stretch material will not work. If your breasts are very heavy and have a tendency to sag down to your waist, you loose the beautiful curves. As a designer I am a strong advocate for support in the bust department. So wear a long line bra, or corset to keep the girls up, as well as show off the dress vs. the dress being pulled down and not sitting right on your body.

Problem 2.  Neckline and Large Busts
 A V-neck is good if your have breasts in the D cup or under department and here is why. An ample bust has a tendency to spill out of V-necks, or are too low and show way too much cleavage. Granted some women like that, but for formal events and red carpet debut, class goes a long ways. The girls will have ample opportunities to show off, but in a formal gown it does not work too well if your very large.

Solution: Rounded necklines, square necklines or angled necklines that cover one shoulder look really nice on large busts. This shape shows off the cleavage without being "too much" for a formal event.

Problem 3. Solid Color sleeves do not balance arms with the rest of body.
This dress is beautiful, the bottom is gorgeous but the top really lacks. The reason why is, for this particular women, her bust line is all you see. Yes maybe I am sounding like the gal on "What Not to Wear" but lets get serious women. Style is all about what works for you, and not every other person. This dress top needs sleeves that will bring her arms into the picture. They are so plain and fitted to her arm that well it almost looks like her arms are missing.

Solution: Have sleeves that balance the dress out with your body. If your big busted then have sleeves that are fuller, float and highlight your arms as well.

Problem 4. Length on petite women - If you are short, meaning you fall in the petite category in the height department, then have your gowns barely touch the floor. The pooling fabric on the ground tends to make shorter women look well shorter. I am not sure why but that is just how it is. Granted if you are 5'10 or taller pooling fabric looks fab on them. Yes I know it really is not fair!  Have your dress hemmed while you are in the shoes you are going to wear to your event. You want the hem to just skim the top of your toes, so get a pedicure, buy so stunning shoes and enjoy your night out on the town!

Example #2 Non Definable Waist



 Problem #1 Design on dress creates illusion of a very large Square.
Because this woman is what I would call a rectangle shape, meaning she does not have much definition between waist, shoulders or hips a dress such as  does not really work. 

Solution - This body shape looks amazing in dresses that define where a waist should be. So two tones, in an empire style, a solid color top and pattern on the bottom also works well. Also angled cuts in the dress with some fullness on the bottom to make the waist look smaller.





Example 3 Full upper body/tummy and small legs


Problem 3 If your full up top but have smaller legs in comparison to the rest of your body a slinky dress such as this is not as flattering as it could be. Also rouching over large tummies makes tummy's look larger, not smaller and as we all know dressing is all about creating an illusion. 

Designers Solution: If you have a body like this, you need fullness in the bottom half of the dress. I would add fullness just as the hips and take away the horizontal gathering as it adds more bulk to an already full shape. To compliment this shape, showing bust curves, using empire style waist dress with fullness over the belly that floats, and does not cling. You want to create long vertical lines, which are always slimming as well as drawing the eye away from problem areas.

In conclusion every body is different and as much as we love ready wear, if you are needing a dress for that special event, I would suggest spending the money to have one made for you. Over all having a custom made gown, that supports, flatters and shows your body off at its best will in turn make you feel amazing. After all, it is about feeling amazing for those special moments and occasions. Even if you feel you cannot afford it, can you not afford to look and feel your best?

I think every woman if she really desired would spend the money to have that perfect gown. Life is just too short to not look like a queen at least once in your life. Money should not be the limitation for your feeling beautiful, special, a princess or queen! If you really desire it, then it will show up in your life. Make the promise to yourself that feeling gorgeous and stunning is after all way more fun then worrying about the cost of that gown. We use money as an excuse to not appear as beautiful, powerful and amazing women. Make that commitment to stop using excuses and start living an amazing life!



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